Mekong Delta to become a friendly destination

“Mekong Delta can be seen as one of the most attractive tourist destinations in Asia with beautiful natural landscapes, but it may soon lose this advantage due to rapid infrastructure development. And it take years to reinstate those precious values,” said Prof. Ernst Sagemueller, general director of the Europe-Indochina Institute for Tourism, at a recent conference entitled “Potential and Development Opportunity in Mekong Delta” in the city of Can Tho.

Prof. Sagemueller said that the delta should be developed in a way that is consistent and friendly on the basis of a close connection between green tourism, ecotourism and environment protection activates, preserving and upholding unique local values such as temples, pagodas, cultural festivals and ancient customs.

In recent years, Ho Chi Minh City’s hotels have not been able to meet high demands in the peak seasons, so neighboring provinces like Binh Thuan, Khanh Hoa, Ba Ria – Vung Tau take the opportunity to market their tourism potential. The delta is also a neighbor of HCMC. However it is surprisingly quiet in this competition.

What’s the matter with the delta?

Poor transport links are a major difficulty in the delta. Highway 1A is the only road from HCMC to the delta. A vast canal system supports water transport, but it is not easy to find a stable route for a high-speed boat. Even the boats which are used to carry travelers across the rivers are of low quality.

Aviation is clearly not the best choice since there are few weekly flights to Ca Mau, Rach Gia and Phu Quoc Island while the Can Tho airport, the region’s biggest, is being upgraded.

The delta’s tourist spots do not have their own unique tours. Most of them are fairly similar. They feature a fruit garden tour while enjoying don ca tai tu (Southern amateur music).

The lack of riverside premium resorts, professionally skilled human resources and poor customer service are reasons that the delta is not the first choice of wealthy tourists. In addition, there are plenty of festivals around the year, but they have never been properly exploited. Thus, it can be said that the slow development of delta tourism is not due to its resource deficiency, but the inappropriate methods being use.

Targeting the market

Many tourist specialists believe that the delta cannot become an ideal destination for local travelers. But sunny sky, mellow countryside and peaceful breezy canals can be very appealing to foreign tourists.

Mekong River would be the biggest competitive advantage in area where travel agents can organize tours to Cambodia on the river, or investors can find hundreds of kilometers of riverside to build premium resorts. Can Tho airport is to open international routes very soon. It seems that Mekong Delta is being given a chance to develop its tourism advantage.

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Danang charm

As a city it doesn’t get much by the way of positive press but after spending a week hanging out with the locals Caitlin Worsham hearts Danang.

The city of Danang gets a bad rap. It gets a bad rap in tour books, from visitors and from travel agents. It’s called ugly. It’s called dull. It’s called overdeveloped and industrial, and, perhaps understandably, it is constantly shunted to the bottom of the list of must-see places in Vietnam.

True, the city itself lacks a charming Old Quarter like Hanoi or the upscale polish of the swankier Ho Chi Minh City joints. It is not home to a famous cuisine like Hue or dubbed a cultural heritage site like Hoi An’s Old Town. The river port is rife with industry and the beaches are not nearly as well loved as Nha Trang’s.

I knew all of this before my recent work trip to Danang, and I’ll admit I was less than enthused about the prospect of spending five days there. But upon arrival, I realised that, in spite of all these things, Danang might be my favourite big city in Vietnam. One of the reasons for this is that I actually felt like I was in Vietnam, not some expat haven or tourist enclave.

I can probably count the number of westerners that I encountered while there – and that’s rare even in smaller stopovers, like Sapa or Dalat. Perhaps this is not a selling point for most, but because of it, I got to experience a side of the country I have never really seen before.

I got to sit on a beach full of locals and drink tepid beer and eat little boiled eggs and peanuts and dried squid with hot sauce while the women selling these items out of baskets eyed me curiously and kindly answered my questions, spoken in halting, awkward Vietnamese. But this is not so different, you might argue, from sitting at a bia hoi in Hanoi or the like. Well I’m here to tell you it is different.

Maybe it’s the fact that there are so many families, so many children that the atmosphere is friendlier. Or perhaps it’s that no one has had time yet to get jaded about the still very much developing tourist industry. Regardless of the reason, I got to talk with people without feeling harassed or pressured or judged or made fun of (well, maybe I was made fun of a little bit).

I got to walk along the river without fears that I would be run over by a vehicle speeding down the sidewalk. Delicious food sure didn’t hurt either. I ate the popular noodle dish mi quang, with it’s subtle turmeric flavour and succulent sweet shrimp and pork. It’s neither a soup like pho nor a dry dish like my xao. The noodles are fat and dense, but mixed with ample mint, basil, lettuce, sprouts and banana flower. It’s light and zesty (provided you add a little lime, hot sauce, or pickled chillies) and perfectly satiating.

You can also eat your weight in fresh, quality seafood, cheaper than you can in the capital, though perhaps not by as much as you’d like. I ate grilled dish and delicate clams, squid that melted in my mouth and a hot pot that made me dip for seconds, thirds, fourths…

I ate nowhere that didn’t involve a plastic stool, some beer and usually a bottle of local vodka. Everything was good and the conversation lively, despite my nearly nonexistent speaking ability. It’s amazing how much can be gleaned from context and how hard people are willing to work to be understood when drunk. In terms of activities, I toured the loop of Son Tra peninsula, a beautiful elevated natural preserve with the sea and bay spreading out beneath it, a dwarfed city below.

I visited the cave in Marble Mountain where soldiers slept and received medical aid during the American War and where places of worship constructed in the 1800’s still stand, decaying with the slow drip of time from the cavern’s moist ceiling. The Museum of Cham Sculpture is worth a stop for a brief (and free, if hard to always follow) description of religious history.

And if you don’t think the sculpture merits the visit, perhaps the gorgeous old open air building constructed by the French just might. And, of course, most importantly, there are the beaches, perfectly cool water, soft sands, endless resort options but also cheap divey digs for those not wanting to shell it out. Generally what recommends a place is its landscape or climate or even the activities it offers. But sometimes you can fall in love with a city for nothing more than its vibe. The friendly, laidback feeling it exudes. And Danang has, at least, one new convert.

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Coming around the mountain

The railway line to Dalat was one of the finest feats of colonial engineering in Vietnam.

Plans to build the Dalat Railway Station were laid tabled at the turn of 20th century but construction did not commence until 1932. There was no point building a railway station without a railway line to get there and that was quite a challenge considering the rugged terrain and precipitous slopes.

The station has been recognised as a national cultural site and is very much a symbol of French Indochina. Today the only train trip you can take is the relatively short 7km tour that circumnavigates Dalat, but the views from the train will help give you a sense of what the engineers achieved.

After the French occupied Vietnam, as part of the colonialists ‘mission civilastrice’, major infrastructure projects were initiated. The French installed electricity power stations, built French-style buildings as well as roads, parks, canals and of course a rail system. In the early 20th century, Paul Doumer, the French Governor-General of Indochina from 1897 to 1902, approved the construction of a railway line from Thap Cham in Ninh Thuan province to Dalat at a cost of 200 million franc.

The colonialists hired Swedish engineers for the job, who had experience at building zigzag railways for use on steep slopes. Although the initial survey was conducted in 1898, construction of the first phase running from Thap Cham to Song Pha, just 38 kilometres, only commenced in 1908 and took seven years to be completed.

During the second phase the railway line was laid down from Song Pha to Eo Gio, just 10km as the crow flies, but it had to run over the vast Ngoan Muc pass. Work on the railway from Thap Cham to Dalat continued until 1932. The last stretch was said to be the hardest as it traversed the Lam Vien Plateau, 1,500m above sea level. The construction of Dalat Railway Station was subsequently completed in 1938. The railway station was among the first colonial-style edifices to be built in the area.

It is a stunning piece of architecture, and the largely French style is complemented by architectural gestures towards the cottage style of ethnic minorities from the Central Highlands. Right in the middle if its façade three high, pointed roofs cut a striking shape against the sky. Under the central roof sits a large clock, which has been restored in recent times. The front of the building features a porte-cochere, supported by two rows of columns, twelve in each row.

In colonial times two trains ran daily from Dalat to Nha Trang and from Dalat to Saigon, now Ho Chi Minh City. Each train would comprise three compartments for passengers and one for goods. Most passengers were French citizens or Vietnamese officials. The journey from Dalat to Saigon took half of a day. With solid road and rail links Dalat quickly became a popular holiday spot as people came to make the most of the city’s temperate climate and stunning landscapes. European style villas mushroomed up and the city was nicknamed “Little Paris”.

By 1975 the railway line had been completely abandoned. Decades of war had taken their toll on all of Vietnam and restoring the rail link from the north of the country to the south took precedence. What was left of the Dalat railway line was ripped up and a number of locomotives made by Fucca in Switzerland were sold back to the manufacturer.

But in 1997, as Vietnam’s economy began to flourish and tourism industry was starting to thrive, the seven-kilometre railway tour around Dalat city was initiated and has proven to be highly popular. The railway station was also restored. You can find vintage post boxes and time-tables still fixed on the walls and antique chairs and tables in the waiting rooms.

Outside there’s an original Black Prairie steam engine which was manufactured in 1930 in Germany. The tour, which runs from Dalat Railway Station to Trai Mat, has now run for a decade. It’s worth taking for the spectacular views. This is Dalat, the flower capital and fruit farm of Vietnam. All around the city you can spot orchards, rolling fields of vegetables and flowers, pine trees and lakes.

When the train stops at Trai Mat station, you can stroll around and visit the local market or Linh Phuoc pagoda. At the market you can find tonnes of fresh vegetables and fresh fruit. A punnet of cherries and strawberries is the perfect accompaniment for the rest of the trip. Train tours cost VND80,000 and run five times a day from Dalat Train Station, 1 Quang Trung street, 063 834 409.

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A scenic coastal road in Khanh Hoa

A new coastal road has opened in Khanh Hoa Province, running along the world-recognized Nha Trang Bay and other scenic sites of the central coastal province.

The beautiful road does not yet have a name, but visitors will never forget their journey on it as they drive past a world of interesting daily life activities and landscapes typical of a coastal locality in central Vietnam.

The road winds for 10 kilometers up and down hillsides, overlooking Nha Trang Bay and fishing villages where local people demonstrate their techniques for catching fish and shrimp.

A quiet bay called Nha Phu appears at the end of the road connecting Nha Trang and National Highway 1A, over 10 kilometers from the center of the city. This bay of primeval islets and white-sand beaches is part of Nha Trang Bay, and has recently emerged on tourism maps as an attractive destination for travelers in central Vietnam.

Vo Ngoc Tuan, a tour guide with HCMC-based Vietmark, was born and grew up in the central coastal region. He tells an interesting story about what happens daily at the bay. He says the many poles that people can see on the surface of the water in Nha Phu Bay are a device used by locals to catch baby lobsters.

The local people gather dry corals and drill many holes into them before tying them to the poles. Waves drive baby lobsters into the holes which the locals will catch to raise for 12 to 14 months in their ponds before selling them to the market or restaurants.

Nha Phu is a haven for nature lovers who want to immerse themselves in tranquility. In the summer groups of vacationers travel to the bay by boat, spending the whole day swimming in the sea and lying on the white-sand beaches, or resting under the shade of Casuarina trees and listening to the pleasant sound of waves gently lapping against the shore.

Thi Islet is one of the more popular islands. It features a pristine beach for swimming and playing games, and visitors can enjoy char-coal-grilled or fried fresh seafood, meat and vegetables that are served on bamboo tables.

Those are just some of the attractions of Khanh Hoa Province. The best way to view the landscapes along the road is to travel by motorcycle. There are many opportunities for visitors to stop and take pictures of their favorite scenes and breathe in the fresh sea air around Nha Trang Bay, which is known as one of the most beautiful bays in the world.

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The journey to the "underworld"

For those who have no understanding about the underworld a visit to Suoi Tien Theme Park in HCMC will disclose the twelve levels of the underworld, where people are punished for bad behavior or for committing crimes when they were alive.

Tu Van Pagoda in Cam Ranh of central province of Khanh Hoa is an interesting place where one can visit an artificial underworld, a scary construction made from thousands of blocks of corals with terrifying images in the dim light.

When in Five Devine Mountains Area (Ngu Hanh Son) in the central province of Quang Nam, after you have seen the pagodas and caves, remember to visit the Underworld Cave which was opened to public in 2006 September.

The Underworld Cave is a spacious area about 1,000 square meters. It served as a secret shelter for Vietnamese soldiers during the two wars. The wartime headquarters of Quang Nam authority witnessed important decisions during 1936 to 1939 and was the site of a battle between five Vietnamese soldiers and two American battalions on December 24, 1968.

Thousands of years of geographic change have carved a complex system of caves into the hillside of the limestone mountain. Designers used the structure of the cave to change it into the Buddhism-originated underworld, a place, it is said, that all men have to visit after ending their lives in the real world. It is where they pay for anything bad they have done in their lives and suffer punishment, the nature of which is determined by the severity of their actions.

The man-made underworld consists of twelve levels, from Dam Thien Son to Thien Thai Gioi; each level is punishment for wrongdoers. The natural chill and dim light in the cave make the journey more real and exciting.

After entering the gate into the afterlife world visitors will see a line of sparkling torchlight lighting up a small part of the death world, revealing a device symbolizing the eternal cycle of birth, suffering, death, and rebirth. Next to it is a stone replica of the Yama Kings who judge the dead after entering their world with fear-some faces. There is a stone altar nearby where visitors can burn some incense for them.

The natural structure of the cave combined with human creativity makes the downward path look like a path to the real underworld. The twelve levels appearing one by one to reveal the punishment faced by sinners, such as grinding, burning or being fried in oil will make one's heart beat faster and faster.

Following the awful journey downward and the experience of extreme fear there is an upward staircase leading to Heaven (Thien Thai Gioi). Climb up to greet the light from the sun and feel the warmth of the real world to lead lives that are more meaningful ever.

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A place to remember

The national relic of Dong Loc, an intersection of Tro Voi, Mui Mac and Moi mountains in Can Loc District, Ha Tinh Province, is not a popular destination for tourists.

Most of the visitors are locals and veterans who go there to burn incense and remember ten young heroines, Vo Thi Tan, Ho Thi Cuc, Nguyen Thi Nho, Ha Thi Xanh, Tran Thi Rang, Nguyen Thi Xuan, Vo Thi Ha, Tran Thi Huong, Vo Thi Hoi, and Duong Thi Xuan.

During the American war the Dong Loc intersection was a vital artery of transportation connecting the North and the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The ten girls were among thousands of people who fought to keep it open.

On 24 July 1968 a bomb fell killing all the girls. The Vietnamese honored these girls as heroes. They have been the subject of documentary films and a movie.

When the war ended, Dong Loc intersection became a historic relic. A victory statue, square, mini museum, soldiers' relics and the graves of the ten heroes, among others, are located here, covered by a beautiful pine forest.

While we were there two men and a woman came. It was noon and the sun was burning hot, but the couple stayed to pray at the memorial site. One man, who was in battledress, stood for a long time by the graves, slowly offering incense at every grave.

The woman who cleans the relics said that the 10 graves are always covered with incense. One visitor has also planted flowers and placed a palm-leaf conical hat on the girls' graves. Some of visitors cry when they hear tour guides about the history of what happened here, about the girls about the war.

Dong Loc intersection relic can reached by taxi or motorbike from Vinh airport in Vinh City.

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Traveling from HCMC to Cambodia and Thailand by bus

HCMC-based Ben Thanh Tourist has collaborated with Saigon Passenger Transportation Company (Sapaco Tourist) to launch a road travel tour from HCMC to Cambodia and Thailand.

Cao Ngoc Minh, public relations executive, said that the first trip of the new tour would be on Saturday next week. From then, the tour will run every Thursday. "We aim to attract more individual tourists to join the tour," she said.

She explained that with the tour is operated on big buses which can easily stop at attractions and places of interest. At a time when high fuel surcharges are being implemented the overland tour is cheaper than travel by air.

The tour, which will last seven days and six nights, will take in sights in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia to visit the royal palace, Angkor Wat, and Banteay Srey temple, and Pattaya and Bangkok in Thailand to see the Nong Nooch Tropical Botanic Gardens, royal snake farm, an elephant circus, Muay Thai boxing and other art performances.

"On the return route to HCMC, we will stop at the duty free shop at the Moc Bai border gate for visitors who wish to buy brand name products and souvenirs without taxes," Minh said.

The tour costs US$398 per tourist.

For further information about the tour, contact Ben Thanh Tourist at: 86 Ly Tu Trong St., District 1, HCMC. Tel: 08 520 2020-829 0212. Email: domestic@benthanhtourist.com or the company's office at 89A Ham Nghi St., District 1, HCMC, Tel: 08 821 8989. 78 Nguyen Hue Blvd., District 1, HCMC. Tel: 08 404 3133 - 404 3134

Source SGT

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Fruit of the forest

With a fascinating blend of natural beauty, wildlife and history the mangrove forest of Can Gio makes for a great day trip out of Ho Chi Minh City, writes Duc Hanh.

My friends from Ho Chi Minh City advised against it, but I decide to take a motorbike to the mangrove forest of Can Gio. I get claustrophobic on buses and although it’s a slog getting out of the city, I prefer to be the author of my own fate.

I make my way towards the ferry crossing at Binh Khanh. After crossing Nha Be River I am officially in Can Gio district, about 60km from downtown Ho Chi Minh City. A smooth road winds its way into the thick forest where mangroves and water coconut trees grow in abundance. It’s hard to imagine that the forest was all but destroyed by bombs and defoliants during the war with the US. Thanks to a reforestation programme launched by Ho Chi Minh City authorities by 1996 35,000ha of trees had been replanted.

Can Gio Mangrove Forest mostly falls under the authority of Ho Chi Minh City. The forest was listed as the first biosphere reserve in Vietnam by UNESCO in 2000. The site is an important wildlife sanctuary in Vietnam as it is characterised by a wetland biosystem dominated by mangrove and many rare species. It is home to 72 species of mangrove trees, 70 species of river-bed animals, 137 species of fish, nine species of amphibians, 31 species of reptiles, 129 species of birds and 18 species of mammals.

Among them there are 21 rare and endemic species that are listed in the Red Book of Vietnam. As a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it is illegal to farm, or take fish or wood from Can Gio forest. Mangroves are an important part of an eco-system that supplies nutrients to coastal fisheries and feeds fish and shrimp. The forest also serves as a natural barrier against storms and erosion.

The forest is an incredibly rich and varied experience for visitors. You can discover the ancient culture of Oc Eo ethnic group, war relics and learn about the hardships endured by the Vietnamese Resistance during the American war at the revolutionary base of Rung Sac. You can even find windswept beaches within its boundaries. After travelling through the forest, I decide to check out Vam Sat Ecotourism Site.

Covering an area of nearly 2,000 hectares, the site was recognised by the World Tourism Organisation (WTO) in 2003 as one of Vietnam’s two sustainable ecotourism sites. We jump into canoes and explore the swamp. We paddle under the mangrove trees and peek up at hundreds of sleeping bats that hang from the trees.

“We often call them flying-foxes as they are very big and nimble,” says Van, who works as a caretaker at the eco-tourism site. “In the late afternoon, you will see them spreading their wings and flying away in search of food.” Everybody does their best to keep silent lest we disturb the bats. We float in a world of clear water, green trees, blue skies and a gentle breeze.

Heaven. After that we make our way towards Tang Bong tower to enjoy the panorama of the whole area from the top of the 26m building. A small museum at the foot of Tang Bong tower displays ancient terra-cotta antiques and introduces the various species of birds and storks living in the area. At a bird sanctuary we spot herons, Giang Sen painted storks and cormorants. Then we hop into a boat and check out a crocodile farm, which I must admit has me more than a little nervous.
The large black-spotted yellow crocodiles with red eyes come swimming alongside us. The guide then announces we’re “fishing for crocodiles” and hands me my “fishing rod” (basically a large tree branch with a fish at the end). Cautiously I cast my rod into the water and as soon as the crocodile spots the fish it is devoured. I realise that we’re feeding crocodiles rather than fishing. Paranoid that the crocodile will pull me in I let go of the rod.

“These crocodiles are called Ca Sau Hoa Ca and they are only found in the waters of southern Vietnam,” says Dung, one of employees from the crocodile farm. “They are one of the most fierce species in the world.” Needless to say I don’t find this reassuring. I’m glad to be heading back to the centre of the ecotourism park where I plunge into the swimming pool. The man-made salt water pool is wonderful. I can just lean back and float in the water.

But soon I’m as hungry as a horse. We head over to Vam Sat restaurant and order a wonderful hotpot with fresh water fish (lau ca). You can also find crocodile meat and crocodile eggs in the menu, but I must admit, the meat is sinewy and tough to eat while boiled crocodile egg might just be one of the worst dishes I have ever tasted. After lunch we lolled around in a hammock in the forest before trying our hand at fishing, this time thankfully with no crocodiles involved.

Getting there

Vam Sat Eco-tourism Centre in Can Gio Mangrove Forest is 60km southeast of Ho Chi Minh City. You can get there by road or boat. By road, go through District 7 along Huynh Tan Phat street and cross Nha Be River by ferry at Binh Khanh. Then you drive through Can Gio on the Rung Sac road for 25km to Dan Xay bridge, turn right for the Vam Sat Eco tourism centre. Alternatively boats will take you from Bach Dang Wharf in downtown Ho Chi Minh City straight to Can Gio Mangrove Forest.

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Over the hill

The Marble Mountains are one of the highlights on Central Vietnam’s tourist trail, says Trieu Van Trung At the foot of Marble Mountain, I stand in the sunshine and contemplate the fact that the name in English might be slightly misleading.

For a start there are no mountains, these are merely hills. Plus, it’s not actually all made out of marble– there is also, I believe, a considerable amount of limestone in the hills. Nevertheless the ‘mountains’ are undoubtedly a bewitching and inspiring place.

You will find mysterious grottos and secluded pagodas while enjoying the breeze off the great blue open sea. Nearby modern hotels and resorts take advantage of the stunning Non Nuoc beach that runs along Central Vietnam’s coastline. Every day the tourists come in numbers, each one seduced by the tranquil air and natural beauty.

When King Minh Mang came here in the 19th century he was famously besotted by the grottoes and pagodas. He is said to have considered it to be the pride of his southern kingdom. It was also Ming Mang who named the hills Ngu Hanh Son in Vietnamese after the five elements. The individual hills were christened Kim Son (metal mountain), Thuy Son (water mountain), Moc Son (wood mountain), Hoa Son (fire mountain) and Tho Son (earth mountain).
Today the area is famous for stone sculpture, though extracting rock directly from the area is now banned. Sculptors are still here in numbers but materials are now transported to craftsmen from quarries elsewhere in Quang Nam province. All along the foot of the hills the sculptors ply their trade in small gardens, which double as workshops and outdoor showrooms. You will find traditional and modern motifs and imagery.

The sculptors cater for all kinds of visitors – Asian and European, the old and the young, flashpackers and backpackers. As you make your way towards the sculptures on display the hawkers will quickly surround you. Sculptures and other trinkets made here have been sold, boxed and dispatched all across the globe. You can find a variety of statues, household items and assorted jewellry pieces.

You can find enormous fantastical animals and fanciful statues from Vietnamese folk tales, pot-bellied Buddhas and some wonderful chessboards. There is literally something for everyone and the hawkers – as ever in Vietnam – would hate to see you go home empty-handed! Happier chiselling than trying to flog their wares, the community of artisans at the Non Nuoc Fine Arts Village keep their heads down throughout the day. Wandering in and around the mountains is a happy pursuit for any tourist.

The highest mountain, Tho Son, is climbable via a series of metal ladders beginning inside the cave and extending to the surface at the top. Ling Ong Pagoda, a shrine within a cave, is a highlight. There are stone steps carved into Thuy Son that lead up to the Tam Thai Pagoda where Phat Di Lac is worshiped. At the back you will find Huyen Khong pagoda, which in the past paid tribute to Hindu and Buddhist gods.

Huyen Khong, like many of the other Buddhist sanctuaries, and many of the caves, served as a safe haven for Vietnamese revolutionaries during the war against US forces. When the mountain first popped up on Vietnam’s tourist trail in the late 1990s tourism services were relatively underdeveloped. Locals opened souvenir shops and food stores freely and the area became rather chaotic.

Thankfully nowadays services are more regulated and much better organised and the area is all the better for it. The district authorities are optimistic for the future of the area and hope that it can be further developed and attract increasing numbers of tourists. In future other marble craft villages will be incorporated while Huyen Vi and Thien Phuoc Dia grottos will be upgraded.

A new rest area will be constructed on Thuy Son while a new stairway to the top of another hill is also planned so tourists can enjoy an s already on offer atop Tho Son are inspirational as it is. By the time you get back to ground level, you might just feel that you climbed up a hill and came down a mountain.

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Set your heart free in mountainous Hoa Binh

Even though everyone is hungry after visiting Hoa Binh hydroelectric plant site, tourists follow the tourist guide to watch a performance by Hoa Binh ethnic minority before lunch. It is here that visitors realize that in addition to the natural beauty of mountains and forest of Hoa Binh, the traditional culture of the ethnic performance opened their heart to the land of dream and fantasy.

Hoa Binh is a mountainous province located in the north. It is bordered by Son La in the west, Phu Tho and Ha Tay in the north, Ha Nam and Ninh Binh in the east, and Thanh Hoa in the south. The culture of Hoa Binh combines six minorities with their own languages, traditional literature and festivals.

The stage for the performance is a nha san (house on stilts) in the middle of nature, where visitors feel comfortable sitting on the floor, free from any restricting chairs or benches. The spacious nha san is in harmony with the view of nature, creating the perfect ambiance for the performances of traditional dance and instruments.

There is no time to be introduced, the twelve bright smiles of the performance immediately delight the audience. But what they bring viewers later really take their heart.

The performance begins with a Muong ethnic MC in traditional costume telling a story and beautiful minority girls inviting visitors for a drink of Can wine, a rice wine drunk out of a jar through straws. This is followed by various types of folk music and dance from the mountainous North West, including that of the Muong, H'mong, Dao and Thai minority groups.

The echoing sounds of Cong chieng (Gong) performances make the audience aware of the vast mountains and dense forest of the region, and the performances of dancers and singers with unique traditional instruments make a strong impression.

The most interesting part of the evening is when the spectators were invited to eat trau cau (quid of betel and areca-nut) and blow a khen la (leaf pan-pipe) to call lovers. The khen is a wind instrument consisting of six, twelve or fourteen bamboo tubes arranged close together with one end connected to a wooden sound box. The khen is very popular with various ethnic groups in Vietnam, such as the Thai, the Muong and the H'Mong.

Khen la is a man-made specialty of ethnic minority men to call for love in the mountain and forest background, and the stage becomes livelier and more romantic when their lovers appeared in a dance with blue umbrellas. For those who have not done this before, the two strange but interesting experiences make for an unforgettable moment in their lives.

The last part of the program is the nhay sap (bamboo pole dance) is which audiences could join performers. The atmosphere is exhilarating and many visitors also take this opportunity to take pictures with the gorgeous performers to remember the eventful afternoon.

The trip to Hoa Binh Province will stay forever in the memory of those who hear the sounds of the gong and khen la, taste and smell the trau cau and Can wine and take part in the nhay sap performance. The traditional culture of the province ethnic minorities has been successfully integrated to tourism activities.

For more information, contact Hoa Binh Tourism Company. Tel: 0218.854374. Fax: 84.18.854372

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Exploring the land of martial arts in festive time

Local people in Binh Dinh Province are busier than ever this time as the festive air in this land of martial arts is getting hotter as the Tay Son-Binh Dinh Festival is only four days away.

For the forthcoming festival, which runs until August 3, a series of artistic and architectural works such as Quang Trung Museum, Temple of Admiral Bui Thi Xuan, the Twin Tower park and an artistic fountain on 28,600 square meters on Nguyen Tat Thanh Street have been restored and constructed.

A 180-page handbook on Binh Dinh's tourism in three languages of English, Chinese and Vietnamese and a 30-page manual in English and Vietnamese featuring 15 tourism destinations in Binh Dinh Province have also been published and hit bookstores countrywide and the tourism spots, hotels and travel agents, Binh Dinh newspaper reports.

Main events will include Tay Son martial arts, King Quang Trung battle drum performance, Miss Martial Lands pageant, and a classical drama performance highlighting the distinctions of the province.

There will be an incense and flower offering ritual at Tay Son sanctuary on August 1, and a drama with over 700 artists playing the roles of King Quang Trung and troops in the Tay Son uprising to remind visitors of a glorious time in Vietnam's history.

Binh Dinh is a coastal province with a rich seafood reserves for delicious and nutritious dishes. Therefore, tourists wandering to the land during this festive time should also not forget tasting the specialties of this area such as Chim mia (sugarcane bird), Nem Cho Huyen (fermented pork of Huyen market), bun Song Than (Song Than rice vermicelli), and banh it la gai (sticky rice cake with coconut or green bean stuffing wrapped in pinnate leaf).

As Tay Son is a sugarcane-growing area, sugarcane birds in big flocks often gather there and the locals catch the birds to make the special dish. The birds are roasted and should be used with Bau Da rice alcohol, a special drink from Bau Da Village of Binh Dinh Province.

Nem Cho Huyen is also another must-try when coming to this land. The specialty comes from Vinh Thanh hamlet, Phuoc Loc Commune, Tuy Phuoc District, and making the specialty is a tradition passed from generations to generations.

In this area, the fermented pork wrapped in guava and banana leaves is the popular finger food of the locals and it stands out from other nem in other areas for its not - so - tender, not - so - sweet flavor.

Bun Song Than (rice vermicelli from the river of deity) is also another traditional specialty of this land. The rice vermicelli is made by locals of An Thai Village of An Nhon District in the province.

It is said that the kings of the Nguyen Dynasty found this specialty so delicious that they summoned the craftspeople making this specialty to the former capital city in Hue to make the dish. However, without the water of the Kon river, which is also called the river of deity, the dish lost its special taste.

Before leaving the province, tourists could buy some banh it la gai as a gift for their families and friends. This cake is made from sticky rice and sugar wrapped in pinnate leaves and stuffed with coconut or green bean. It is a rural and simple cake but it could not be left out in the special days of the locals such as Tet holiday, death anniversary or wedding.

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Southern village in central Quang Nam

In a hot summer noon, Dai Binh Village looks like a green oasis nestled along the Thu Bon River overwhelmed with sunlight. Nowadays, Dai Binh, also known as the southern village of Quang Nam Province, welcomes tourists with its murmur of springs, breezes and sweet fragrance of durian.

Local women usually wait for travelers at the entrance to the village circled by bamboo hedges and bushy trees. They never forget to introduce to guests a village with the friendly people and many kinds of fruits.

Despite a small village in Que Trung Commune in Nong Son District with only 282 families, Dai Binh proves itself as a southern fruit orchard with thousands of star-fruit trees.

Nowadays, a fruit tree locally known as tru as a type of star-fruit has become a specialty of the village together with durian, thin-skinned sweet orange or mandarin orange. A grassroots officer of Que Trung Commune says that local fruits have become famous throughout the country although they have yet to be evaluated by any specialists to date.

Tru fruits are served as an appetizer at most fruits parties there thanks to attractive pinkish pieces covered by thin peels. Visitors will get refreshment with a mild sour and sweet taste of tru before going on with other specialties such as rambutan, plum, guava, mangosteen, and durian.

Although a Dai Binh durian is smaller than that in the Mekong Delta, it still attracts tourists with a sweeter taste and fragrance. Besides, dragon fruit and guava have also contribute to the "fruit restaurant" there all year round.

At a garden, visitors will enjoy tropical fruits with tea in a right style of a southern province after going for a walk, taking pictures, and picking fruits by themselves. They only have to pay for fruits they pick, and even always get some free ones from a generous garden owner.

Phan Thi Suong, 78, is a hospitable tour guide by offering guests a warm space with fresh fruits, and stories of the peaceful village during the wartime. Sometimes, she will sing a folk song to visitors like an enthusiastic tour guide of Dai Binh Village.

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Visiting ethnic minority groups in Quang Nam

Natalie Shan seems to be lost in admiring Cotu girls gathering around a loom to make brocade, and elderly people and lads carefully sharpening rattans and knitting a papoose in Bho Hoong Tourist Village in central Quang Nam Province's Dong Giang District.

The Germany vacationer in her trip to the province is much rewarded, as besides the well-known destinations in the province like the World Heritage Site of Hoi An Ancient Town, she is also able to watch first-hand how the Cotu ethnic people there earn their living.

Natalie Shan is among a group of international tourists joining a tour arranged by Le Nguyen Travel Company to Bho Hoong Tourist Village, which has just been included in the list of tourism venues as a joint effort between the travel firm and the provincial Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

It takes tourists from Hoi An City around 30 minutes to reach Bho Hoong, a small tribal village with a population of only 600. The village attracts travelers from far and wide with some special communal houses on stilts called moong or guoi where they will join in exciting activities like learning the Cotu language and gong dance performance.

Hospitable villagers will invite guests to dinners with rice cooked in bamboo tubes, wild vegetables, Can wine, and many friendly fire camps at night. Besides, young people will love trips for picking up tea leaves at Quyet Thang plantation, climbing up the 100-meter Grang falls, or walking along the legendary Truong Son Highway.

International tourists find it interesting to observe daily life of ethnic minority groups throughout the country. Therefore, Bho Hoong is an ideal place for promoting traditional craft villages in Vietnam to foreigners as almost all Cotu residents there are earning their living by making handicrafts.

"The more travelers come, the more we are happy to introduce them to our traditional cultures," says Dinh Cong, a 90-year-old villager of Bho Hoong. Despite an elderly person, he always hopes Bho Hoong to become a popular tourist attraction with peculiar cultural traits of the tribesmen.

Provincial authorities have recognized Bho Hoong Village as a new destination besides Hoi An Ancient Town and My Son complex of old towers. They also plan to build some museums featuring all cultural aspects and traditional craft villages of highland ethnic groups. One day, foreign travelers will soon explore more about Quang Nam, a central land rich in traditions and spiritual values.

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Oc Eo cultural relics on Ba The mountain

Ba The mountain, better known as Vong The (longing to see one’s wife) or Hoa The Son, remains a mystery to tourists in the Mekong Delta province of An Giang thanks to age-old vestiges from Oc Eo culture. The mountain is about 40 kilometers west of Long Xuyen City.

A recommended stop en route is Ba The market, or Oc Eo Town, which was a busy port in the Middle Ages. Excavations began in 1942 and in 1944 the Oc Eo citadel was found. Archaeologists unearthed many valuable artifacts including molds made of gold, bronze, stone and pottery, statues featuring Buddhist and Hindu gods such as Buddha and Ganesha and sacred animals and Yoni and Linga.

It takes only 15 minutes to reach Ba The mountain peak by motorbike on a road that winds through forests, cliffs, and abysses. The ancient Son Tien pagoda stands solemnly on the apex, next to a three-meter high granite rock. Legend has it that the large footprint on the rock belongs to a god who set his footstep on soft land at the dawn of humankind.

In a recently completed museum, designed in the style of temples of southern Asia, is a display of many historic and cultural antiques of Ba The-Oc Eo culture. Unlike the colorful, detailed Angkor-Khmer architectural style, this building is decorated simply in brown, gray, and white. Hindu features are easily identified in the round domes and high doors, each with an upturned U. From afar, the building looks like a personification of Yoni and Linga icons. A balcony decorated with Arabian ponies circles an exhibition hall on a square area. The person faces the sunrise, which is believed to be the palace of gods in Hinduism.

Local residents frequently recount a story about a man who went up the mountain to lead a religious life but he still missed his wife and his homeland. When he passed away, people found a stone with a shape like a man wearing a hat and they rumored that the man turned to stone. They then named the mountain "Vong The" (longing to see the wife) after this legend.

Another legend refers to a sword-shaped rock on Ba The mountain called Thach Dai, which is believed to be a magic wand from heaven to punish the cruel.

Whether the legends are true or not, Ba The is an ideal destination for tourists wishing to spend some quiet moments watching the sun set on the mountains.

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A bird for riding and for specialties

Located in Long Thanh District in the southern province of Dong Nai, Vuon Xoai (mango garden) has gone beyond a farmstead to become a tourist destination for people who want a quiet place to escape the noisy city during the weekend.

When there, visitors rarely miss the chance to try riding on the back of an ostrich, enjoying a mixed feeling of fear and fun when sitting unstably on a big bird that can run as fast as 65km per hour.

There are hundreds of ostriches at the farm, and for a mere VND10,000 visitors can enjoy a ride. Sometimes falling off the bird's back adds a lot of fun to the experience.

However, ostrich riding is just an additional tourist service for entertaining visitors. Most farmsteads raise ostriches for the commercial value of their skin, feather, eggs and meat! Some restaurants offer ostrich meat as a specialty to highlight their menu so as to lure curious gourmets.

As they are fed mainly on seeds and plants, ostrich meat is a lot like beef, making it easy for restaurant chefs to show off their skill by preparing an extensive VND80,000 to 150,000 each.

The restaurant offers over 15 ostrich dishes, colorfully presented and with unusual tastes. Some clients like ostrich heart, or liver boiled with hot pepper. Others like ostrich feet, cooked in Chinese traditional medicine, spices and lotus seeds, because of the delicious taste and nutritional values.

However, simpler cooking styles also attract diners, such as a slightly salty grilled ostrich meat with onion and green pepper, deep fried ostrich with squash flowers, ostrich meat steamed inside a gourd or a pumpkin, or grilled ostrich in bamboo tube and coconut milk. All these dishes have become favorites thanks to the tasty ostrich meat.

Other eateries in HCMC lure tourists with their own specialties. Champagne Restaurant (129-133 Ham Nghi Blvd) or Gio Noi Restaurant (265 Pham Ngu Lao Street), nestled in hotels Que Huong and Liberty in downtown, offer dishes such as ostrich spring rolls, banh xeo cooked with ostrich meat among others. Prices range from VND40,000-150,000 per dish.

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Da Vien island gets scenic park

The Thua Thien-Hue People’s Committee greenlit a project to turn Da Vien island into a scenic park.

Construction will divide 10.5 ha into three zones.

Zone A will be reserved for ceremonies, community activities and open air exhibitions.

Zone B will replicate Ngu Uyen ( Imperial Park ), a historical site in Hue City . Entertainment clubs for locals will also be built here.

Zone C will be a residential area with 120 five-star apartments and a large ornamental garden with a stage.

Da Vien is a small island in the Huong (Perfume) River, southwest of the ancient capital Hue . It is, togeher with Hen (Mussel) Hill, the feng shui element of Hue , and recognised by UNESCO as a world cultural heritage.

During the Nguyen Dynasty, Da Vien was a kind of feudal amusement park of royalty.

Source VNA

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An Giang leaves you breathless

Legend has it that Nui Cam, or the forbidden mountain, in the southern province of An Giang got its name because in olden times it was an untamed place, so filled with wild animals that people were prohibited from going there.

But this beautiful and imposing part of the That Son (Seven Mountains) range in Tinh Bien District is no longer off-limits. It has, in fact, become an ecotourism hotspot renowned for its lovely landscapes.

Nui Cam has a subtropical climate with an average temperature of 25 degrees Celsius. It is at its most attractive in spring when the weather is cool and fresh, trees are verdant, and nature is bountiful.

Standing on Cam Mountain on cloudless days, one can get a panoramic view of the immense rice fields merging with the sea in Ha Tien on one side and the border with Cambodia on the other.

Cam Mountain is actually made up of five smaller peaks, Thien Tue, Bo Hong, Ong Buom, Dau and Ba, where plants and flowers grow around the year to make for a pretty and tranquil picture. Early in the morning, the tops of these peaks are usually covered in mist.

From the foot, one can take a 15- to 18-minute drive up a newly opened 8km road to the top of Thien Tue.

The more adventurous can also make a 4km hike up Bo Hong, which, at 710m above sea level, is called the roof of the Cuu Long (Mekong) River Delta.

But since this path is rather rough it takes at least three hours to get there. But along the way are small teashops where one can rest in hammocks, breathing in the fresh air and listening to birds singing.

The mountains have many trees aged hundreds of years. With their giant canopies, they look like colossal umbrellas.

Along the way to the peaks are some beautiful landscapes like Thanh Long Stream, the shrines of Rau Tan, Cuu Pham, Kin, and Cay Que, Ong Ho Cave, Thuy Liem Grotto, and Muoi Co Temple. Besides the obvious religious connection, each of them is surrounded by stories and legends.

Sacred sites

There are many places of worship here – like Phat Lon (Big Buddha) Pagoda, Phat Nho (Small Buddha) Pagoda, Trung Son Thien Tu Temple, and Van Linh Pagoda.

Van Linh is an old and very sacred pagoda. It was built in 1929 when it was called La (Leaf). It got its present name after being completely rebuilt in 1940.

The pagoda is situated on a slope and is surrounded by a peaceful, wind-swept yard. In front of its main sanctuary are three towers, the tallest of which is Cuu Trung Dai (nine-storey tower) at 40m. Each storey has an exquisitely carved, two-metre Buddha idol made of stone.

The two shorter towers are Quan Am Cac (Boddhisattava Quan Yin Pavilion) and a stupa dedicated to the pagoda’s first abbot. Van Linh has been restored many times after being damaged by the ravages of time and wars.

In front of the pagoda is the large Thuy Liem Lake, a reservoir of around 60,000cu.m. It provides water to the 500 families living on Cam Mountain.

Another attraction on Cam Mountain is a giant statute of the Maitreya, or future, Buddha. At 33.6m it is thought to be the tallest religious structure in Viet Nam. It is also considered among the tallest in Southeast Asia.

To develop ecotourism on Cam Mountain, local authorities plan to preserve and develop all kinds of forests here, including tropical-temperate forests, special-purpose forests, and afforested areas.

There are also plans to build resorts and amusement areas on the mountains and start pilgrimages to the area.

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Phuoc Hai pagoda

Covering an area of 2,300sq.m, Phuoc Hai Pagoda, or Ngoc Hoang (the Jade Emperor) Pagoda in the past, in District 1, HCM City City was built around the turn of the 20th century on the foundation of the old Minh Su Pagoda.

Phuoc Hai Pagoda is one of the older pagodas of the Chinese community in Southern Vietnam. It worships the Jade Emperor, Bodhisattvas and gods, showing the crystallization of the main ideas of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism, but later the pagoda mainly followed Buddhist ideas.

With unique architectural and artistic values, Phuoc Hai Pagoda has been recognized as a national architectural and artistic relic.

It has a beautiful composition, with the central part being a system of lower, middle and upper shrines surrounded by corridors, creating a private and solemn atmosphere. The main doorframes are made of stone blocks, which are delicately carved. All architectural parts, big or small, have symmetric compositions and look delicate, but they are durable.

The pagoda reflects a unique carving art. Most decorative patterns, adapted from Chinese references are stylized with delicate lines showing a harmonious combination of handicraft technique and decorative art.

One of the typical artistic values of Phuoc Hai Pagoda is the art of making statues with pasteboard, which is shown in 57 statues in the pagoda. From the statue’s clothes, figure, appearance and postures to the facial feature, large forehead and bright eyes, all look lively reflecting different nuances of the statues’ sentiment.

Now the art of making statues with pasteboard has been lost and these statues of hundreds of years old have been preserved as precious assets.

Every day, a lot of domestic and foreign visitors visit Phuoc Hai Pagoda to pray for achieving successes in life and happiness, or simply to behold the mysterious beauty and ancient architecture of the pagoda.

Source Vietnam Pictorial

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A breath of fresh air

Duc Hanh escapes the sticky heat of Ho Chi Minh City and basks in the sun by Ho Tram beach.

After struggling to get out of the city thanks to the chronic traffic jams coming out of Ho Chi Minh City, we make a turn for Ba To town in Xuyen Moc district of Ba Ria- Vung Tau province and finally we’re making some headway.

Our destination is Ho Tram beach, which runs alongside the edge of Phuong Buu forest reserve. All along the coastline fishermen come and go from bustling wharfs. On closer inspection we see hauls of fish, crab and squid coming ashore. The sun-kissed fishermen unload their boats then set about fixing their fishing nets as women from the village sort the catches into baskets.

Nearby the Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa makes the most of the wonderful setting. From the front of the brown tile-roofed houses guests can take it all in while taking a dip in the swimming pool or down at the beach. Then there’s Sanctuary Ho Tram, a spectacular waterfront community of luxury residential villas and a five-star resort. Although still under construction, the chic, modern white façade is still dazzling in the brilliant sun.

Two kilometres down the coast at Ho Tram public beach you can rent a lounger for VND10,000 or an inflatable ring for VND10,000 to VND20,000 and lounge on the waves. After a swim we doze on the beach before hunger rouses us. We decide to try the local restaurant where we enjoy a delicious feast of boiled crab and grilled blood clams.

Afterwards we visit Ba To town where we find a bustling seafood market with an abundance of dried and fresh seafood available. Here the buildings are sparsely furnished and simply decorated. The locals are easy going and approachable. If you feel like exploring more the coastline you can rent a bicycle or motorbike easily enough (we didn’t even need to leave a deposit or ID card).

While the town itself is not particularly impressive, the surrounding countryside is unforgettable with red-soil paths running past shrimp ponds that sit amongst the golden paddy fields that stretch as far as the horizon. After driving around in the sun we decide its time to head back to the beach where we can take a cooling dip then stretch out on the sand with nothing but the sounds of the sea in our ears.

A gentle breeze blows over us as we nibble on a plate of fresh squid and sip on a cold beer – simply heaven. Before the sun sets I wander to the end of Ho Tram beach, which has been fenced off, and I discover what else is to come. A five-star resort and entertainment complex is now being developed to the tune of $4.2 billion; a rather incongruous sounding figure considering how quaint and rustic the services on the beach I have just enjoyed are.

The superior complex will be finished in 2011 and there will be two five-star hotels offering 2,300 rooms, international restaurants, health and spa facilities, conference rooms, a shopping centre and even a Las Vegas-style casino. If it’s a simple beach holiday in a quiet destination you are after, perhaps you should visit Ho Tram sooner rather than later.

Getting there: Ho Tram is in Xuyen Moc district of Ba Ria-Vung Tau province, 35km from Vung Tau city and 125km from Ho Chi Minh City. From Ho Chi Minh City you can either drive or take the hydrofoil from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau (VND140,000) and then get a taxi from Vung Tau to Ho Tram.

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Exploring a ’new’ Life Heritage Resort in Hoi An

Located on the edge of Hoi An Ancient Town and on the banks of the scenic Thu Bon River, the Heritage Resort Hoi An is a short stroll from the colorful and bustling ancient town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Though featured by old-time Asian design, the influences of French, Dutch, Chinese and Japanese cultures make up the distinct ambience and atmosphere of the resort.

The Life Heritage Resort spa treatment facilities situated along the romantic Hoai River are a welcoming place for relaxing. New plantings have increased the shade cover around the pool and the spa has moved indoors with three single treatment rooms open to views of the Thu Bon, while a double-room looks onto the resort's gardens.

Renovations at the popular 94-room resort pared the hotel back to its concrete shell and then, with Pisani Designs holding the palette, recast the property with more space in the rooms, more light in the bath-rooms and bespoke furnishings. The second-generation upgrade features a new spa and a new Heritage Bar that celebrates the history of the exquisitely preserved 19th Century trading port and provides an outdoor perch on one of the town's most quaint streets.

Inside the air-conditioned bar is a series of archival prints for visitors to explore the town's past. Upstairs at the Heritage Bar cigar aficionados hold court in segregated space, seasoned by the finest imports and Life's recommitment to a wine list that would do justice to the finest hotels.

At Senses, the resort's signature restaurant, the menu, like the resort itself, has been completely revamped to feature a fusion of Asian and Western cuisines. The open, riverfront exposure remains the same, but custom furnishings have redefined the ambiance.

At Vienna Cafe, the ground-floor pastry and light-meal eatery. Old World aesthetics conjure a remarkably different dining experience. But, like the rest of the resort, its tiling and furnishings are fresh and stylish.

This is a new window on Hoi An that has never been opened before, said Cathy McConkey, the resort's general manager. She added they always traded on their proximity to Hoi An and now visitors can watch the world go by from a prime perch outside the Heritage Bar.

Life Heritage Resort Hoi An reopened on August 1 after a six-month suspension of operations.

Life Resorts also owns and operates the Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, inspired by the architecture of the Kingdom of Champa, just as the Life Heritage Resort Hoi An was inspired by the classical design featured in Hoi An ancient town.

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Exploring a ’new’ Life Heritage Resort in Hoi An

Located on the edge of Hoi An Ancient Town and on the banks of the scenic Thu Bon River, the Heritage Resort Hoi An is a short stroll from the colorful and bustling ancient town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Though featured by old-time Asian design, the influences of French, Dutch, Chinese and Japanese cultures make up the distinct ambience and atmosphere of the resort.

The Life Heritage Resort spa treatment facilities situated along the romantic Hoai River are a welcoming place for relaxing. New plantings have increased the shade cover around the pool and the spa has moved indoors with three single treatment rooms open to views of the Thu Bon, while a double-room looks onto the resort's gardens.

Renovations at the popular 94-room resort pared the hotel back to its concrete shell and then, with Pisani Designs holding the palette, recast the property with more space in the rooms, more light in the bath-rooms and bespoke furnishings. The second-generation upgrade features a new spa and a new Heritage Bar that celebrates the history of the exquisitely preserved 19th Century trading port and provides an outdoor perch on one of the town's most quaint streets.

Inside the air-conditioned bar is a series of archival prints for visitors to explore the town's past. Upstairs at the Heritage Bar cigar aficionados hold court in segregated space, seasoned by the finest imports and Life's recommitment to a wine list that would do justice to the finest hotels.

At Senses, the resort's signature restaurant, the menu, like the resort itself, has been completely revamped to feature a fusion of Asian and Western cuisines. The open, riverfront exposure remains the same, but custom furnishings have redefined the ambiance.

At Vienna Cafe, the ground-floor pastry and light-meal eatery. Old World aesthetics conjure a remarkably different dining experience. But, like the rest of the resort, its tiling and furnishings are fresh and stylish.

This is a new window on Hoi An that has never been opened before, said Cathy McConkey, the resort's general manager. She added they always traded on their proximity to Hoi An and now visitors can watch the world go by from a prime perch outside the Heritage Bar.

Life Heritage Resort Hoi An reopened on August 1 after a six-month suspension of operations.

Life Resorts also owns and operates the Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, inspired by the architecture of the Kingdom of Champa, just as the Life Heritage Resort Hoi An was inspired by the classical design featured in Hoi An ancient town.

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Traveling on the East-West Economic Corridor

The East-West Economic Corridor, in reality a 1,450-kilonieter-long road, connects Danang City in Vietnam with large cities of Laos and Thailand. The corridor has potentials in historical, cultural, and ecological tourism. Nowadays, a traveler has only to buy a packaged tour along the corridor to explore natural beauties of many countries, or even design a trip by himself.

Tourists are suggested to begin the journey in Danang City in the early morning, go through Thua Thien-Hue and Quang Tri provinces, and reach Lao Bao Border Gate at noon.

It takes only 15 minutes to finish procedures for entering Laos with just VND20,000 for a tourist and VND5,000 for a trader. Then, they are already on the way to Savanakhet, the second largest province of the neighboring country after Vientiane Capital.

Along the way are forests of many old trees and green rice fields, giving passengers cool and fresh feelings quite different from the hot climate in the summer. Some peaceful villages with traditional stilt houses come in sight along the road.

The bus arrives in Savanakhet Province late in the afternoon. This is one of six busiest commercial localities along the corridor besides Mawlamyine in Myanmar, Phitsanulok and Khon Kaen in Thailand, and Hue and Danang in Vietnam.

A Vietnamese resident there says that locals there have benefited much more in business from the corridor. "A direct airline from Savanakhet to Bangkok will be launched soon, and hopefully an air route from Savanakhet to Vietnam will also be opened soon after," says the resident.

From the province, travelers could see crowded streets of the Mukdahan City in Thailand beyond a river and easily enter the Buddhist country through the Mukdahan Border Gate.

There are many hopping centers in the city with all kinds of products such as building materials, clothes, and souvenirs. Tourists will also be pleased with accommodation services with many hotels costing just US$10-30 a room each night.

After taking a rest, travelers will take time for their own pleasure, possibly by taking a walk around peaceful streets, watching twilight landscapes on the Mekong River, or traveling on a tuktuk three-wheeled taxi. In addition, some local specialties like grilled chicken, sticky rice, or Mekong fish will wash away their tiredness after a long journey.

In the following morning, tourists can still prolong their trip to other attractions in Thailand such as Bankok, Pattaya, and Phuket.

The SK Tourism Co. has arranged caravan tours with the itinerary from Singapore, through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos to Vietnam since 1994. Visitors can contact the company's Vietnamese partner named Hoian Travel at 10 Tran Hung Dao Street, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province, telephone: (0510) 910911, website: www.hoiantravel.com

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