Watering hole for wartime memories

This bar cum mini-museum lets visitors travel back in time to the Vietnamese-American War. Michael Libucha goes on a late-night sortie.

Tucked away on a side street west of West Lake is a little bar where the American War is remembered with a giant arsenal of memorabilia.

Old military uniforms, antiquated army equipment and defused bombs are scattered around NoK Bar along with hundreds of other vintage objects from an era that is understandably still a sensitive topic in modern Viet Nam.

Visitors to Ha Noi who are interested in local history and culture but shell-shocked after spending too much time in the Old Quarter’s tourist traps will find NoK to be a handy retreat.

A unique destination on the capital’s bar scene, there’s a lot to learn about modern Vietnamese history here, but the bar’s low profile means not too many tourists visit. Apart from the odd trip wire, there are none of the usual trappings of popular tourist destinations. Drink prices are reasonable, and the staff will let you rest in peace.

Flashback

The owner of NoK Bar, Khuat Thang, has created the ambience of battle, as well as a 1960s vibe, through the bar’s decor. Vintage radios, TV sets, lamps, fans and bric-a-brac surround the displays that include old dog tags, grenades, gas masks and a military stretcher. There’s even a framed photograph of Beatles-era Paul McCartney among the clutter.

The bar’s dim lighting, slightly ramshackle appearance and stone table tops with built-in mini-fireplaces add to the peculiar atmosphere. There are even hard-to-notice little touches such as a blood-red handprint on the floor.

The bar’s toilet is a latrine, or squatty potty, which gives visitors just a small taste of life in a military camp during the war. Those who don’t want to squat can use a more modern toilet next to the room with the pool table.

During the past 12 years, Thang has built up his formidable collection of wartime paraphernalia and knickknacks, often travelling south to HCMCity, My Lai, Nha Trang and Cam Ranh to search for new additions to his war chest.

Both sides of the conflict are represented. Scouring northern Viet Nam for treasures, Thang has also found examples of equipment from China, the Soviet Union, Poland and Cuba.

There are also several Vespas and USSR-era Minsk motorbikes parked around the place. While the Vespas are for display purposes, NoK Bar does run a motorbike rental service. Minsks are available for rent for VND86,000 a day, and the bar also has some of the old Belarusian bikes up for sale.

Calm before the storm

NoK Bar opens at 7.30am and winds down operations by midnight. During the morning and afternoon the bar is quiet. But come nightfall on a Friday or Saturday and the bar explodes with the sounds of live music.

Live bands usually stay true to the bar’s nostalgic theme and play music from the 1960s and ‘70s. Bands will often play Vietnamese songs that were popular among soldiers during the war. Last Saturday night a talented Vietnamese troubadour sang melancholy war-era ballads backed by percussion and a wailing harmonica.

Tracking down NoK Bar isn’t too difficult. It is located near the water park north-west of West Lake. Travelling north along Lac Long Quan Road you’ll pass a large field which is actually a peach farm, surrounded by a tall brown fence. Passing the field, keep your eyes peeled to the right for a lane leading to the water park. Turn right into the lane, and you’ll find NoK Bar on the left hand side.

NoK Bar

Address: No 1 621/Lane no.1, Lac Long Quan St, Tay Ho Dist, Ha Noi

Phone: 0904 123 558

Hours: 7.30am - midnight

Comment:A treasure trove of war memorabilia from the 1960s and ‘70s awaits
visitors at this bar near the West Lake water park.

Visitors to the bar can play a range of instruments scattered among the wartime paraphernalia.

Source VNS